Author Archives: rebari

Belle’s Blue Peasant Dress From Once Upon A Time

So I love the show Once Upon a Time and decided I needed a cosplay from it. My favorite characters at the moment are Belle and Hooke. Since a lot of people have told me I look like the actress for Belle I figured “Why not?”. I actually finished this costume over a month ago but I have been horrible at updating my walk-through blog.  I will try to be more on top of  it this year as I complete costumes.


Lets Dive right on in!


So beginning with materials. I found an amazing cotton satin in the upholstery section of Joanns that matched the texture and color incredibly well. They do not sell it anymore unfortunately though :/ I used a basic shirt linen for the blouse, a simple white lining, and costume suede for the bias tape. (all found at Joanns) I used Butterick 6196 for the corset. I altered the corset to add darts, reduce the strap size, add a square neckline, and added more grommet holes. So I basically destroyed the original pattern. I drafted my own pattern for the skirt since it was a simple gathered box skirt and waist band. If you use the same pattern it wont come out at all like mine just so you know. Here is the unholy mock up that took me forever to get the darts the way I wanted them: IMAG1478

After that was completed, it was time to cut out the real fabric and linings. (The satin is just lined with a medium weight interfacing)


The inside lining is made a layer muslin and the basic lining from Joanns. I followed the recommended boning places from the pattern besides the front panels. I moved it closer to the ends to reinforce the grommets.


This step does not have pictures but I hemmed some of the seams with a serger and fray checked some other parts to stop the fraying during the sewing process. Then I assembled everything together with a new technique I learned for this project called sewing in the ditch. I basically pinned the lining and satin sides together with bad sides facing in. I lined up the seams and then sewed right between the preexisting seams so the stitches would not show. The inside did have some of the seams go astray but no one is going to really see it. If I was going to make a better corset in the future I would hand stitch this part so there was no stray threads on the inside.


Here it is on the dress form. I super proud of the darts because they actually worked really well!


So I took a break from the corset and decided to do the skirt next.  I basically just cut about a 3 yards long piece by 35 inch wide piece of fabric. I hemmed the one side and serged the rest of it. I gathered the fabric by hand and attached it to the waist band. The waist band is secured with a seven inch invisible zipper and a set of snaps on the band.


Next, I created a couple of yards of bias tape with my new bias tape maker! All you have to do is cut the fabric as directed on the box it came in. Push it through the bias tape maker and iron it flat. It took awhile but was pretty easy for the most part.


To finish up the top all I had to do was attach the bias tape and had the grommet holes. There are a ton of great tutorials on how to attach the bias tape that will explain it worlds better than I could. Here are some links for that:

After I followed those directions I had it pretty much all completed!


I did not take pictures of the blouse making process since I made it the night before the con. It was quite messy on the inside and I plan on remaking it with more historical approach to it. Hopefully I can complete that soon before my next con in September. I will be sure to post it in a more timely matter the next time. My next posts will be the long awaited silicone mermaid tail parts. I have no clue how I am going to go about writing it yet. It will be A LOT of parts since there is so much involved in making a tail. I might just post all of my progress photos and forgo the explanation part because I really do not want to tell anyone something wrong. I am currently working on Coronation Elsa and a Historical Elsa design so I will be posting my progress on those as well.

As always thanks for reading and have a great day! 😀

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Elsa Photos

These gorgeous photos were taken back at Ohayocon 2014 with Sarah from Friese Frame Photography. I am so sorry I completely forgot to post the final photos on this blog! Anyways, They turned out so lovely and I am so glad to have had the chance to work with Sarah. Be sure to check out her other works! Click here to see all the photos from the shoot.



I hope to add some more “sparkles” to the bodice for Colossalcon(maybe a photoshoot with an Anna?!?!) and style the wig slightly different; but for the first time all put together the costume turned out wonderful. I am really proud of all the skills I learned during this project, especially since it was my first attempt at making an evening gown. I definitely know how to improve future dresses and garments from some of the mistakes I made though. Overall, I am really glad how the project turned out and thank you everyone for your amazing feedback! Your comments and likes have made me so inspired to kept creating costumes and outfits for a long time 😀

If you guys want more updates or casual posts from me be sure to follow me on Facebook and Tumblr. I am going to be using this blog to be posting just more official updates and walk-throughs.

On a side note, the semester is coming to an end and I have huge plans for the summer and the following school year. I have made a huge life decision and applied to fashion program, but I will post more about that when I know officially what I am doing. My next big project is going to be creating a silicone mermaid tail, more specifically, Nami (koi skin) from League of Legends. I have always wanted to be mermaid since I was a wee little one so this is a huge dream come true. I am also working on Belle’s blue peasant dress from Once Upon a Time and Rei’s school uniform from Evangelion during the months of April and May. As always thank you for reading and have a wonderful day. 😀

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Elsa from Disney’s Frozen Costume Walkthrough Part 3 – The Shoes



~ Base shoes were purchased from Ebay from this seller (*note this seller goes through periods of the shoes not being available so I apologize if the link does not work)

I got mine in satin black because it sounded easier to paint than the glossy leather. Also iron on vinyl will melt most synthetic fibers, plastics and damage leather. (Be sure to check the material you are buying first!)

~ basic white fabric paint for the primer

~blue, silver, and white acrylic paint

~ mod podge

~ glitter!!!

~ Iron on vinyl

To start the process I took a tape measure and measured the parts that where going to need an icicle design. I took that measurement and made my base icicle pattern out of paper. After I was happy with the shape I copied it onto some basic muslin. (DO NOT CUT OUT THE PATTERN BEFORE IRON ON VINYL IS ADDED TO THE FABRIC)


Next I took my iron on vinyl and followed the directions on the back. I covered both sides of the muslin in vinyl for extra strength. Be sure to leave about an inch of iron on vinyl over lapping on the front so you can attach it to the shoe later. Now you attach the vinyl to the shoe via iron. Do not let your iron touch the vinyl directly or it will melt and ruin your iron. It is an easy task just make sure to go nice and slow so the vinyl does not bunch up. If a section did not stick all the way just be very careful and only let the iron touch that section to re-iron it down.


After this step the rest is pretty easy!

First cover any sections of the shoes you do not want paint or glitter to covered in with paper or tape. I started with about 4 LIGHT coats of white fabric paint and gave each layer a few hours to dry. I stop added the primer when the seam line between the shoe and the vinyl was fairly smooth. It does not have to be perfect because you will be covering it in glitter and more paint next. ( *note my shoes have an obvious wrinkle because the seam line is right where my foot bends in the shoe when I walk. Hence the wrinkles.)


I added 1 layer of white acrylic paint so the silver and blue paint would stick better. Now comes the fun blending part. I cover the entire shoes in 2 – 3 layers of the silver metallic paint. Then for the tips and back of the shoe I added a blue ombre effect with a sponge brush. Again this step does not need to be perfect because you are covering the shoe in glitter next. I personally think the shoes look just as good without glitter though.


The final step! I took the shoe box and lined it with a plastic bag and one shoe at a time I covered them in glitter. I took my sponge brush and did about 1/4 of the shoe at a time. I added  the mod podge lightly and sprinkle the glitter on top. After I was done with the glitter, I shook the shoes out and looked for any areas I may have missed. I made my finishing touches and seal the shoe with the mod podge.  The mod podge dries clears, is fairly water proof, and flexible. Of course some glitter will fall off but you will be leaving glitter everywhere if you do not seal it.


And they are done! It took about a day and a half to make. I would say it is only a 4-6 hour project but you have to let everything dry which spaces out the time quite a bit.

Thanks for reading and happy crafting!!! 😀

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Elsa From Disney’s Frozen Costume Walkthrough Part 2- SnowFlakes & Glitter

Elsa’s cape/train has this gorgeous snowflake and icicle design. It is quite detailed and requires a lot of time and patience. Unfortunately, I do not have my own magical snow powers so I had to make my train out of glitter instead of snow. Make sure to read part one of my walkthrough to see all the materials I used and where to get them.

Here is a list of the basic Materials:

~ 1 lb of #359 Misty Transparent Ultrafine From

~ 3-4 bottles of fabric mod podge from local craft store

~ sponge brushes

~ x-acto knife

~ duct tape

~ self healing cutting board



The first thing I did to create the design was grab a bunch of paper to recreate the patterns. For the large icicle designs, I took the concept art (shown above) and made the designs proportional to my personal height. (If you are shorter or taller than 5’8″ I would recommend testing it first). After I calculated those lengths, I grab a bunch of paper and started drawing the design. I only drew half of the design at first so when I transferred it both sides would be exactly the same.


When I was happy with the design I transfer the patterns to sheets of duct tape. WARNING: I do not recommend using duct tape. It is a very aggressive tape and can easily tear and/or leave residue on your fabric. The only reason I used it was because I had a bunch left over from a previous project. I made the sheets of duct tape by taking my self-healing cutting board and laying down rows of duct tape. Then drew a line down the middle, lined up the icicle design, traced the first side, reversed the stencil, and did the same thing on the other side of the line. I cut out the designs with an x-acto knife. I did this a total of about 4 times for all my different stencils (not including all the mess ups lol). You can reuse the duct tape stencils about 2-3 times before it loses all of its adhesives. Note: Duct tape DOES NOT un-stick from itself, wax paper, anything paper, and a lot of plastics.



I followed the same basic process to create the snowflake stencils as well. I made a few snowflakes that match Elsa’s cape from the movie and concept art. I folded a piece of paper in half and made the snowflake designs with a ruler. After that I used them as a stencil and transfer them on to the duct tape sheets. For the other snowflakes, I had some paper snowflakes my roommate and I decorated our room with. I bought them at my local craft store called Patcan’s back in November.


After all of the stencils were cut out, it was time to glitter the train to death. I took a sponge brush and applied fabric mod podge onto a small sections at a time ( be forewarned the mod podge dries quickly). Then I took a spoon full of glitter and lightly tapped it onto the area with glue and patted it lightly. Do not worry about putting too much glitter on the design the extra will fall off later. After you let the mod podge set for about 4 – 6 hours you need to seal the glitter. ( Please seal your glitter or you will be a glitter monster and the design will fall off). The best way to seal your glitter is to put another coat of fabric mod podge on top of it. It dries clear and wont ruin the design. The other method is to heat seal the glitter. I personally did not do this so I would suggest looking up how to do that on google. If you get the mod podge in an unwanted area the best way to remove the glitter and glue is to take a q-tip or cotton ball with some nail polish remover and GENTLY scrub off the unwanted. If you are afraid the nail polish remover will damage your fabric be sure to practice on some scrap fabric.










So a lot of time later I had this huge train of glitter and snowflakes. It was quite a bit of work but well worth the results. The pictures do not show how sparkly it is person unfortunately. :/

I used the same process for Elsa’s top. I wont go into great detail how I made it but here are the progess photos of the glitter designs on her sleeves.





Sorry for the awkward pose in the last photo I was trying to adjust my body so pattern was clearly visible.

Anyways, I hope this helpful to all who requested the walk through! I will be making part 3 – the shoes later this week, probably after my calculus test. Part 4 will be the wig but it is back home so I will have to wait until spring break to take pictures of it. Thanks for reading and have a lovely day! 😀

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Elsa From Disney’s Frozen Costume Walkthrough Part 1-Patterns, materials

I should apologize now for my horrible grammar but I just took a major Bio exam and my brain is kinda out of it. Alas I promised to produced this weekend so let’s begin!

I decided back in early November when I first saw the trailer for Frozen that I was going to have to make Elsa’s ice dress. I feel in love with the design and character immediately and sold my soul to make this dress for Ohayocon 2014. It is my biggest project to date and though stressful at times I did really enjoy making it. I estimate I spent about 300 hour total hours on the dress and still want to add more detail work to the costume.



I bought most of my fabric from joann fabrics because I had a bunch of coupons. I bought my sleeve material from spandexworld but I had a friend in New York buy it in person because you must buy over $20 worth of fabric and the shipping was very expensive

8 yds of BLUE RADIANCE organza casa collection

3 yds of BLUE RADIANCE satin casa collection

3 yds of BLUE RADIANCE lining casa collection

1 yd light aqua glissenette

For the dress I used this pattern as a base:

I heavily altered the pattern to add the train and fit my awkward body shape though. The train was drafted by me so there is no pattern you can buy sadly :/

To get the silver lines on my dress I bought lumiere metallic paint in silver and turquoise and painted the organza myself. I needed 2 jars of each color.

Here is the different colors of Sequins I bought for my top. I bought circles and out them into rectangles I recommend the hologram spa blue as your primary color. It was the closest to the actual color. I bought about 1500 sequins :

20mm Metallic Paillette cool water blue

20mm Paillette Hologram Turquoise

20mm Paillette Hologram Glacier

20mm Paillette Hologram Spa Blue

20mm Metallic Paillette turquoise

20mm Metallic Paillette blue bell

20mm Metallic Paillette aqua

The glitter to make the snowflakes was bought from This was very very pricey but well worth the cost for the quality. This company specializes in ultra fine cut glitter hence the extra costs. I bought a pound of “Ultrafine glitter in Misty”. There are so many choices it is insane. If I could redo this I would have gotten a few colors and mix them to make a gradient effect. I did buy their fabric glue and it worked  well unfortunately I spilled half of the bottle and needed to buy “fabric mod podge” it worked just as well so I would recommend that over artglitter’s glue.



Like I explained above I bought a pattern for the main dress but heavily altered it to fit my body and add the extra train in the back. Here is an example of the shape I made to add the train. My train was only 14 inches in the back. Anything longer and it would have been too hard for me personally to walk.


To make Elsa’s top I used a base pattern Mccall’s  M6460. I used dress B as my base and again heavily altered the design.

First I made a mock up of the top out of some muslin and tried it on. I marked a line where I wanted it to lay on my shoulders and cut one half of the top. I seamed ripped the shirt apart and used the side I cut as a base for my new pattern. I made the new pattern out of muslin to make sure the top fit properly. After I was happy with the design I cut out the good fabric and assembled it. I used a zigzag stitched on all the seams since the fabric was a 2- way stretch. I just hemmed the top with a zigzag stitch too. I am going to cover that hem in glitter anyways, so I was not too concerned about making it look extremely appealing. For the hands I took some extra blue fabric and zigzag stitched that to create my finger loops. Since the fabric was stretchy it worked perfectly. After that I sent my zigzag stitched to the smallest width and hemmed the hand since it would get quite a bit of wear and tear. To finish the top I sewed a simple elastic band to the bottom of my top to ensure it would not ride up. I used 1 inch thick elastic. This what I happen to have in my notions drawer but I am sure something half of the size would do the job nicely. I measured where the bottom of the top hit my stomach and subtracted 1.5 inches from that measurement. After that I just gather the bottom and sewed it to the top.


Moving on to the biggest part of the costume, the train/cape. *cue death march*. Ok, it was not that horrible to make but it does require a lot of room which I did not have due to holiday decorations. The pattern is 100% drafted by me so make sure to give me credit if you use this style. I apologize in advance for my crappy diagrams made via paint in 5 seconds. I am pretty a five year could have done better but I hope they get the idea across. I would recommend anywhere from 6-8 yards of a 58 inch wide fabric. I personally used exactly 8 yards of fabric to make mine. I would not suggest making the train any longer than 100 inches because it will be hard to walk around in and quite heavy with all of the snowflakes. I am also kinda tall (5’8″ft) so if you smaller than 5’5″ft I would suggest 80-90 inches long.


Before you dive into the costume I would take time to sketch up the measurements and maybe even make a mockup if you have the resources. In the movie Elsa’s train is pleated just like her coronation gown cape. There are two main pleats on each side which I did add to the train. To figure out how much fabric I need for the top I measured myself with the dress on to see where I wanted the train to be. Mine was 20 inches in total but I added almost 12 extra inches for the pleats and seam allowance. The first pleats in the back were 3.5 inches (7 inches total) and the side pleats were 2.5 inches( 5 inches total). I would suggest playing around with these to see how your fabric falls. After I figured out the top I moved onto the actual train, I divided each side into 4 sections. The largest section is illustrated for you below. To get the 87.5 inches for the other side of the pattern I used a very weird math process which I will try my best to explain. I decided how long I wanted my cape to be (100 inches) then I decided how short I want it to be in the front (50 inches). I subtracted the two numbers (100-50=50) and divide that by 4 (50/4=12.5). I took that measurement (12.5) and subtracted that each time from the four sections to find the opposite sides. My personal measurements were (100, 87.5), (87.5, 75), (75, 62.5) and (62.5, 50). Each width was different due to trying to hide the seams in the pleat. To create the curves at the bottom, I just free-handed the design so it ran nicely into each section.

To make my cape appear seamless, I made sure to cut the largest section on the fold so I did not have a seam in the middle. After this I had all my sections and sewed them together then rolled hemmed them on my serger. To attach the train to the dress I sewed some heavy and medium weight snaps along the inside of the dress and on the back of the train. Basically I just fold over the train into the dress and snap into place. It holds up quite well and I have not had any issues wearing it at all.


Thanks for reading! I hope this was helpful and actually made sense. If you have any questions feel free to ask and I will try my best to answer. I hope to publish part 2 tomorrow which will be all about glitter and snowflakes!


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Princess Tutu Cosplay Part 2

So after ruffling/ironing all the tulle I needed to make the basque and panty. For those who do not know a basque is basically a yoke or large waist band that is attached to the panty. I basically used the shape of a cheerleader’s skirt yoke and worked around that. For the panties I had a swimsuit pattern I used for the panty part.


 Now a proper tutu basque and pant should be made from strong, non-stretchy fabric. Since mine is just for a costume and non-dance purpose I decided to make the thing out of spandex. In the end it turned out more to be like a practice tutu but is still completely fine. So I used basic white spandex from Jo-Anns (with lots of coupons) and nude lining. After sewing together and adding the elastic it looked like this:


Please excuse the awkward yoga pants/mirror picture but you get the general idea.

So after that was assemble it was time for the attaching of the tulle to the actually panty. I would not say it was extremely difficult just time consuming (and needle consuming). Obviously a nice classical tutu is quite large. So trying to sew it on my tiny sewing machine was hard but I still managed to complete the task. I started by marking with a fabric pen where I wanted my layers:


After marking I pinned and gathered each section of tulle by layer. I made about a 3 inch overlap on the part where the two ends of the tulle would meet. Sewed them down with a zigzag stitch. Repeated for 10 layers.



Ahhh! So much tulle!!

So after all the layers were sewn on, it looked like this:


Yay It looks like a tutu 😀 Now to tackle the extreme puffy tutu by tacking/quilting the layers together. First I ironed all of the layers (yay more ironing). Then to tack the tutu I basically started at the bottom and worked my way up. I used an upholstery needle with two strands of heavy duty pink thread. I started at the second from the bottom layer went up to the first layer. After this I pulled the needle down to the third from the bottom layer then back up to the second, down to the fourth, etc. I did this for layer 1 through 5 from the bottom. I did layers 5-8 in the same manner. I left the top two layers untacked because it was extremely see through. For a proper tutu you would need to tack all the layers down so they don’t fly everywhere when the dancer is performing. I am extremely proud of the end result though. I never made a tutu before and it looks pretty good in my eyes. Here is the end product:



Thanks for reading 😀 Happy cosplaying and sewing!

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Beginnings of Princess Tutu

So as a ballet dancer myself I decided I had to cosplay Princess tutu. Not only is the show awesome but the character  design isn’t too shabby either. I highly recommend the anime if you are unfamiliar with it.


So to start the project off, I decided to make the tutu. This was by no mean an easy task since I decided to make an traditional pancake tutu. After researching the web for quite sometime it became apparent I was going to have to make my own pattern. Proper tutu patterns were too expensive too buy and there was not enough info online to download a pattern. I did happen to find some great blogs/websites that took me through the basic process. Here are some links for anyone else who needs them :

I am 5’8″ so I decided to go with a 16 inch tutu with 11 layers no hoop. I decided to do the no hoop for a couple reasons 1. it is just a costume 2. I am going to need to pack it on a air plane 3. money/lack of place to buy it. Now if you are intending to make a proper tutu use the hoop method. There are plenty of websites that sell them.

Here I started off by cutting 4 sections of 54inch tulle of each length. I used two types of tulle; petticoat and regular tulle. Petticoat or crinoline tulle is the heavier/more coarse tulle. Next to the lengths is an “p” or “r” standing for petticoat or regular tulle. 16 r, 14.5 r, 13 p, 11.5(hoop layer if making hoop tutu) p/r , 10 p, 8.5 p, 7 p, 5.5 p, 4 r, 2.5 r, 1.5 r. The petticoat tulle is a MUST it gives the tutu all it shape and helps it stick out properly.


After all the sections were cut out and sewn together, I needed to dye them pink. I used RIT liquid dye in petal pink using the stove top method. Be forewarn tulle dyes quickly because it is so porous. It took me only 5 mins to get the color I needed O.o


After dying the fabric it needed to be iron. Now let me tell ya 200 ft of tulle to iron is no walk in the park. It probably took me about an hour and a half to iron the sections. Make sure the iron is one low or you will melt the fabric.


After being ironed it was time to ruffle/pleat all of the tulle. There are many methods to pleating a tutu. Some people just gather the fabric others use large pleats. I decided to use a ruffler foot to pleat the fabric. I highly recommend this foot! It made the bunch of tiny little pleats and saved me a boat load of time. Best part is I can reuse the foot for any other project that requires gathering or pleating. Now, it still took some time to pleat the tulle with the foot. After all the pleating, surprise more ironing! It took about 2 hours this time.I gather about 2inch-4inch sections of the fabric to create pleats all the way down. Then I ironed them this way as well.


So all that was left after this was to pin it together and see how it looked! Not going to lie I was kinda nervous that it would stay up without a hoop but the end result was perfect 😀


That is all for today. I have to attach it to the basque/panty next. Thanks for reading 😀 If you have any questions feel free to ask me on my tumblr or refer to the website links earlier in the post.


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